Find Your Make and Model

No. You shouldn't have to. You should see the #2 & #4 wires coming up through the plenum. The #6 wire will be back by the firewall. #6 is the only one that people (usually poorly equipped) seem to have a problem with. The links below might help.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8037f989

http://www.nissanoffroad.net/how_to/plugs/plug.asp

Be sure to use a spark plug socket (with rubber insert) and not just any old deep well 5/8 unless you just feel like breaking some plugs :-(

Also, I'm curious why you wish to replace them. Is this just maintenance or are you having a problem we might be able to help you with?

Post back with more info or questions. We'll be glad to help. Thanks.

well, with 117,000 miles I

Submitted by maddogg on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 16:08.

well, with 117,000 miles I figure it's due, but, yes, it's really running rough, feels like a cylinder down unles it's full throttle. At idle and low rpm it's very rough, at cruising speed it vibrates the whole truck like an out of time driveshaft.It jut doesn't seem to have room enough to grab the boot and get a socket through the plenum, And God forbid I should drop something, whew!

Maddogg, Based on your

Submitted by drivability on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 16:28.

Maddogg,

Based on your description I would think it has set trouble codes.

Is the engine light on?

Does the engine light work?

Have you scanned the computer for trouble codes? If you haven't you should consider taking advantage of Autozone's free scan. Have it done whether the light is on or not. Ignore them if they tell you that they can't be checked unless the light is on. Ask them to kindly humor you.

Yes, it's a tight fit but it is actually a walk in the park compared to some. Locking extensions would be recommended. Most of the things that you could drop should be able to be retrieved with a magnet.

Post back with more info or questions. Thanks.

Dog, You failed to post an

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 16:31.

Dog,

You failed to post an engine size buddy, but in this case it doesn't matter, because all the engines use the same plug. You gotta use only NGK plugs, and the NGK part number is PFR5G-11 and the gap is 44. Same thing is true for ignition cables (gotta be only NGK). Next thing is in readin your last answer your describin one or more vacuum leaks (and or) cylinder (and or) ignition misfires. Any codes set? If yes, then post them cause we gotta see them in order to post accurate repair info.

Maddogg, I forgot to post

Submitted by drivability on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 17:03.

Maddogg,

I forgot to post this earlier but if you need a service manual for your truck you can post an email address. Pictures don't post here.

Block,

Don't say it! I know what you're thinking. :-)

Check your amy inbox. Thanks

Thanks guys,I haven't chased

Submitted by maddogg on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 19:47.

Thanks guys,I haven't chased codes yet, I figured with the mileage, I'd hit the obvious tune up stuff fist,and judging from what I found with the 3 easy ones, I'm doing good so far. New cap and rotor, 02 sensor, and air filter, clean the butterfly and then see what codes I get. I'm just worried about pulling the boots apart or something, or like I said dropping something that I won't be able to retrieve.Geez I miss my old chevy! lol

Maddogg, I can appreciate

Submitted by drivability on Fri, 01/27/2012 - 21:34.

Maddogg,

I can appreciate your desire to perfom some maintenance on your vehicle but I think you're putting the cart before the horse. You should check trouble codes before you perform any repairs. If you don't you won't know whether the codes were there before you started. Because of defective parts and human error it would be good to know whether you are digging yourself out of a hole or just creating a deeper one. Also, unless money is no object, you always want to determine what needs to be repaired first.

You mentioned that you were concerned about tearing the boots. I recommend you replace the wire set during your service. Big Block and I don't usually disagree but I personally have seen a lot of problems with NGK ignition cables (regardless of warranty). I do like NGK plugs but I would recommend Yazaki ignition cables for your truck.

Dog, For the future I’m

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Sat, 01/28/2012 - 06:35.

Dog,

For the future I’m postin a helpful link below for removing the 6th.plug.

http://www.nissanoffroad.net/how_to/plugs/plug.asp

Yazaki ignition cables are good and I would recommend them along with Denso, but don’t use:

Autolite
Bosch
or Duralast

A/C Delco is a quality cable, but I've seen driveability and performance issues when they are used on Japanese vehicles. If after replacing the plugs and ignition cables the rough running you described persists then:

Replace the fuel filter (if replacement is due)
Replace the air filter (if replacement is due)
Rule out vacuum leaks.
Rule out cylinder and ignition misfires.
Post error codes.