I have a 2005 Ford F-150 5.4L. I need to change the spark plugs/COP's. I know this model engine can be a bear esp #'s 4 & 8. Any suggestions on steps to make the project easier? The plugs have 105k on them. WD40 each plug 4 a week b4 changing? Thoughts?

becareful they brake off in the head, then your screwed.
there's also a specail socket for them, i'll post a bulletin that might help, but i'd bring it to some one who knows fords and has the specail tools needed if one brakes.

Ignition System - Spark Plug Removal Instructions

TSB 08-7-6

04/14/08

SPARK PLUG REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS - 4.6L
3V/5.4L 3V16.8L 3V

FORD:
2005-2008 Mustang
2004-2008 F-150
2005-2008 Expedition, F-Super Duty
2006-2008 Explorer,
F-53 Motorhome Chassis
2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac

LINCOLN:
2005-2008 Navigator
2006-2008 Mark LT

MERCURY:
2006-2008 Mountaineer

This article supersedes TSB 08-1-9 to update Vehicle Applications, Service Procedure and Part List.

ISSUE
Some 2004-2008 F-150, 2006-2008 Mark LT, 2005-2008 F-Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator, with 5.4L 3-V engine; 2005-2008 Mustang, 2006-2008 Explorer, Mountaineer, and 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac with 4.6L 3-V engine; 2005-2008 F-Super Duty, 2006-2008 and F-Stripped Chassis, with 6.8L 3-V engine may experience difficulty with spark plug removal. This may cause damage to the spark plug and leave part of the spark plug in the cylinder head. Affected engine build dates are as follows: 5.4L 3-V and 6.8L 3-V before 10/9/07, 4.6L 3-V before 11/30/07.

ACTION
Refer to the following Service Procedure for techniques to remove the spark plugs and extract broken spark plugs.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

The engine build date can be read on the left hand cam cover information sticker.

To remove spark plugs without damage, it is necessary to adhere exactly to this procedure before removal is attempted.

CAUTION DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM OR HOT. THE ENGINE MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE WHEN PERFORMING SPARK PLUG SERVICE. REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS FROM A WARM/HOT ENGINE INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.

Spark Plug Removal Procedure

1. Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.

2. Back out the spark plugs no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Using Motorcraft(R) Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits (1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon). A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.

NOTE COMPLETELY REVIEW THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR THE MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER PRODUCT - USE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND SHAKE WELL.

CAUTION EXCESSIVE MOTORCRAFT(R) CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH CLEANER FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.

CAUTION DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.

3. Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N.m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.

NOTE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP. (Figure 1)

Separated/Broken Spark Plug Removal

If the spark plug separates after following the Spark Plug Removal Procedure, it will fail in one of three modes. Refer to the appropriate removal procedure as required.

a. Mode 1: The ground electrode shield is left behind as an empty shell. (Figure 2)

b. Mode 2: The entire porcelain insulator and ground electrode shield remains in the cylinder head. (Figure 3)

c. Mode 3: The upper section of porcelain broke off with remaining porcelain left inside the ground shield. (Figure 4)

Flowchart of procedure. (Figure 5)

Mode 1 Procedure:

Use Rotunda special service tool 303-1203 to remove an empty ground electrode shield from the cylinder head. (Figure 6)

NOTE THIS TOOL IS ONLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH AN EMPTY GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. IF PORCELAIN REMAINS, PROCEED TO MODE 2 OR 3 REMOVAL.

1. Modify vacuum cap to a 3/8" (10 mm) length for each ground electrode shield that needs to be removed. (Figure 7)

2. Use the installation rod (J) provided with service tool 303-1203 update to install the modified vacuum cap. Push the cap into the ground shield down to the electrode strap. This will plug and protect the combustion chamber from contamination. (Figure 7)

3. Thread-tap the ground electrode shield using a 9.0 x 1.0 mm plug tap (tap profile is about 3-4 reduced diameter threads on the tip end).

a. Coat the end of the tap with general purpose grease. (Figure 8)

b. Turn the tap about 3 to 4 turns into the ground electrode shield. Back the tap up frequently to break chips and avoid cut material from coiling-up in the spark plug well. A tap socket adaptor (K) is provided with service tool 303-1203 update to connect the tap to a 3/8" socket drive.

CAUTION DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD WITH THE TAP AND WRENCH. THE TAP MAY BREAK IF THIS IS ATTEMPTED.

4. Thread Rotunda special service tool 303-1203 into the ground electrode shield. (Figure 9)

a. Install the stepped end of the tool pilot bushing into the spark plug well ensuring it bottoms out.

b. Screw the center shank into the ground electrode shield. Do not over tighten the shank, to prevent thread stripping.

c. Install the nylon washer and jack nut until finger tight.

d. Turn the jack nut until the ground electrode is freed from the cavity and withdraw the tool assembly.

NOTE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT® HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP.

Mode 2 Procedure:

1. Add an additional 1/2 teaspoon Motorcraft® Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner fluid into spark plug well and allow 15 minutes of soak time.

2. Using long-reach nose pliers grasp and remove the porcelain with an up and down motion taking care not to fracture the porcelain.

3. Refer to Mode 1 Procedure to remove the remaining ground electrode shield from the cylinder head.

Mode 3 Procedure:

CAUTION DO NOT DRIVE PORCELAIN DOWN INTO THE GROUND SHIELD WITH A PUNCH AS FRAGMENTS MAY ENTER THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

Use Rotunda special service tool kit 303-1398 to remove porcelain broken inside the ground electrode shield. (FIGURE 10)

Porcelain Removal - Preparation

CAUTION THE ENGINE AND THE BONDING ADHESIVE MUST BE ROOM TEMPERATURE OF 70 °F (21 °C) OR HIGHER FOR PROPER CURE AND BOND STRENGTH. VERIFY EXPIRATION DATE OF ADHESIVE.

CAUTION DO NOT REUSE PINS. THIS ENSURES THE CORRECT SURFACE CHARACTERISTICS FOR BONDING.

1. Remove any remaining electrode material from broken porcelain with long nose reach pliers.

2. Spray Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner into the porcelain hole for 2-4 seconds using the straw nozzle supplied with the brake cleaner can.

3. Insert a pin (A) into the collet (B). Screw the collet onto the threaded rod (C). Install the assembled collet, pin, and threaded rod into the steel tool pilot (F). (Figures 11 and 12)

4. Retract the collet and pin into the steel tool pilot, protecting the pin. (Figures 13 and 14)

NOTE PIN TIP DAMAGE OR BENT PINS WILL PREVENT INSERTION INTO THE PORCELAIN.

5. Insert the completed assembly into the spark plug well and fully engage the pin into the porcelain. (Figure 15)

6. Spray Motorcraft(R) Metal Brake Parts Cleaner 2-4 seconds between the spark plug well and steel tool pilot. The steel tool pilot must be lifted up approximately 1/2" to allow brake cleaner to flood the porcelain and pin.

7. Scrub the porcelain inside diameter by moving the threaded rod up and down vigorously. Take care making sure the pin does not disengage the porcelain. (Figure 16).

8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.

9. Remove the tool assembly. Again flood the porcelain with Motorcraft(R) Metal Brake Parts Cleaner for 2-4 seconds, then blow out the entire spark plug well and porcelain with dry compressed air.

NOTE CLEAN AND DRY COMPONENTS ARE KEY TO BONDING THE PIN TO THE PORCELAIN.

10. Repeat Steps 1-9 to prepare remaining porcelain fragments as needed.

11. Disassemble the collet and pin from the threaded rod. Dry the tools thoroughly with dry compressed air.

Porcelain Removal - Bonding Process

CAUTION USE CARE TO PREVENT BONDING AGENT FROM CONTACTING THREADS IN CYLINDER HEAD.

NOTE WORKING TIME LIMIT OF LOCTITE(R) 638(TM) RETAINING COMPOUND IS 5 MINUTES.

1. Apply two 3/4" (19 mm) long stripes of Loctite(R) 638(TM) to opposite sides of a clean and dry applicator (H). Excessive amounts of Loctite(R) 638(TM) are being used if it drips off the applicator. (Figure 17)

2. Insert applicator into the porcelain and move applicator up and down 1/2" (13 mm) while turning to spread the Loctite® 638TM on the inside of the porcelain. (Figure 18).

3. Add additional Loctite(R) 638(TM), repeating Steps 1 and 2.

4. Clean the applicator with Motorcraft(R) Metal Brake Parts Cleaner before the bonding agent starts to cure.

5. Reassemble a dry and clean collet and pin assembly.

6. Apply two 3/4" (19 mm) long stripes of Loctite(R) 638(TM) to the pin. Excessive amounts of Loctite® 638TMare being used if it drips off the pin.

7. Retract the collet and pin into the steel tool pilot to protect the Loctite(R) 638(TM) coated pin.

8. Insert the completed assembly into spark plug well and fully engage the pin into the porcelain with a twisting motion to spread the bonding agent.

9. Add additional Loctite® 638TM, repeating Steps 6-8.

10. Leave the pin fully inserted in the porcelain while the adhesive cures. Replace the steel tool pilot with the aluminum alignment sleeve (G), Figure 9, to support the threaded rod while the adhesive cures if additional porcelain fragments are present in other cylinders. (Figure 19).

CAUTION A MINIMUM 1 HOUR CURING TIME AT 70 °F (21 °C) DEGREES IS REQUIRED BEFORE EXTRACTION IS ATTEMPTED.

11. Allow the Loctite(R) 638(TM) to cure for a minimum of one hour at 70 °F (21 °C).

12. Repeat the bonding process for remaining cylinders as needed.

Porcelain Removal - Extraction

1. After a minimum of one hour curing at 70 °F (21 °C), install the steel pilot tool over the threaded rod.

2. Install the washer and jack nut until finger tight against the tool pilot bushing.

CAUTION ONLY THE STEEL PILOT TOOL IS ACCEPTABLE FOR USE IN PORCELAIN REMOVAL.

3. While holding the end of the threaded rod with a wrench, tighten the jack nut until the porcelain is free of the ground electrode.

4. Refer to Mode 1 Procedure to remove the remaining ground electrode shield from the cylinder head.

NOTE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT® HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP. (FIGURE 7)

Porcelain Removal - Pin Slipped Out

In the unlikely event that the pin does not remove the broken porcelain, this process can be repeated.

Key elements to success are:

^ Clean and dry porcelain

^ Sufficient Loctite® 638TM Retaining Compound spread uniformly

^ Loctite(R) 638(TM) cure time and temperature

^ Preventing the threaded rod from rotating while removing the porcelain

Replacement Supplies

Replacement kit components and additional kit consumables (Loctite(R) 638TM Retaining Compound and pins) can be obtained by calling 1-800-ROTUNDA, Option 5.

Parts Block

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

MT080706 Claim Labor As Actual Actual
Time Time

DEALER CODINGCONDITIONBASIC PART NO. CODE
12405 01

The posted TSB is fine if you wanna follow it. I know about the TSB, but have yet to use it, or ever felt the need to use it. I just use a "Heat Gun" to heat up everything real good, so it all comes apart real easy.

CAUTION DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM OR HOT. THE ENGINE MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE WHEN PERFORMING SPARK PLUG SERVICE. REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS FROM A WARM/HOT ENGINE INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.

just be sure to move enough stuff out of your way so that you aren't getting at the plug at an awkard angle. This could cause the plug to break.

This is now a Saturday or Sunday Project so Ill update you guys then. 2 other cars have worked their priorities to the front of the pack. The Pontiac brakes and AC and a Honda. Oh btw Ill be starting a summer course on maintenance and repair of hybrid vehicles. Should be fun

Oh btw I'll be starting a summer course on maintenance and repair of hybrid vehicles. Should be fun.

Sorry man, better you than than me. WTF? This is supposed to be America. The greatest free democracy in the world. So now we're supposed to say goodbye to the internal combustion engine, and say hello to some electric, battery powered piece of shit? I got a better idea.

Let make gas 50 cents a gallon like it should be.

Let's put all the greedy and corrupt big fat oil pigs in jail where they belong. Better yet, lock me in a room with them. I'll show justice in less than five minutes.

Let's do away with motor vehicle emission standards. What the hell do we need standards for anyway? We're Fu__ked, the planet is Fu__ked, we did it to ourselves.

I fought in Nam.
Lost my right eye.
Don't give a shit.
Would do it again if I had to.

For the preservation of American values, ideals, and standards, that's what the "F" for.

Where the hell is the America I remember?

God Bless ya. All military personnel are top notch in my book. Thank yous are not enough to express mine or my families gratitude for your commitment and the many many others. Special is the only word that comes close.

As for the hybrids I need money. The more I can work on the more money I can make. They wont stop making them so I think its my responsibility to make sure they are fixed right. If The model T had not been improved upon we wouldnt have the USA like we do right now so if our country can lead the world in another technological area then hey why not. Ill never own one as I love the smell of gasoline in the morning but if Ford makes a hybrid Ill work on it no problem. Same with Chevy and Dodge.

Learn as much a you can on those hybrids. There's no doubt that the world is headed in that direction (for now).
Unless something viable comes along soon, electric is the best alternative we have. Not saying its' the only choice just the most sustainable (within reason).

I was a bit concerned when the class manual said you will need gloves approved for up 1000 volts and the body or arm grounding straps. I just figured the concern alone will make me pay attention :)

As far as sustainability I think it will come eventually from a grand assortment of ideas and the hybrid is one of them. Im not a fan since my area isnt much about stop and go traffic so they arent much use to me, but they will be everywhere in 10 years to some extent or another and I want by that time to be on here challenging you guys for a $200.00 gas card!

They say history repeats itself. Remember when stealin chrome bumpers, computers, and airbags was hot? Well, you're gonna have the same thing all over again with the $5000.00 batteries that go into these hybrids.

That might be true with the way these people out here are stealing the copper out of the telephone transformers and lines.

That or we will have a bunch of electrocuted idiots laying behind the car in the morning when your ready to go to work.

GOD BLESS you for your support Thor. NAM VETS, don't get (and never got) the gratitude they deserve. We had a job to do and we did it. Period. No different than World War I, II, or Korea. A job is a job. While we don't expect to hear a Thank You, that doesn't mean it wouldn't be nice to hear a Thank You every once n a while.

Okay so I had this past Sunday to start the spark plug removal project. I followed it to the letter and I am presently waiting for the arrival of my broken plug removal kit :( 4 of the 8 broke and in all different ways. 1 broke and left the ground shield and part of the ceramic, 1 broke and left on the shield, and 1 snapped and left a long slender piece of ceramic on one side but I have nowhere to atach any superglue or epoxy to pull it out. I am trying to be super extra careful not to allow and ceramic to fall into the cylinder.

I am actually glad it happened since I need to have this experience, however I think Ford should be responsible for the costs of this type of Repair and for the tool. To buy it (303-1203 and 303-1398)from Ford they want almost $700. I found Lisle LIS65600 was much less expensive and I can buy the ceramic removal kits for only $20 extra bucks.

i thoght that might happen, good luck with them.

Okay so I had this past Sunday to start the spark plug removal project.

I followed it to the letter and I am presently waiting for the arrival of my broken plug removal kit :(

4 of the 8 broke and in all different ways.

1 broke and left the ground shield and part of the ceramic, 1 broke and left on the shield,

and 1 snapped and left a long slender piece of ceramic on one side but I have nowhere to atach any superglue or epoxy to pull it out. I am trying to be super extra careful not to allow and ceramic to fall into the cylinder.

I am actually glad it happened since I need to have this experience,

BULLSHIT!

LOOK MAN. REMOVIN THE PLUGS ON THE SAID 150 IS A PAIN IN THE ASS. BUT WITH ALL DUE RESPECT "WTF"? NEXT TIME USE THE HEAT GUN TRICK. GETS EVERYTHING SOFT AND LOOSE AND EASY TO REMOVE WITH NO BREAKAGE OF ANYTHING.

I find your response silly and Ill stick to discussing this with mws919 since hes never called me a liar. I enjoy problem solving which is why this problem is okay for me. Hope that simplifies it enough for ya.

Look man I really owe you an apology, and I really am sorry. I know you’re still in school and still learning. I didn't mean to go off on you like that. It’s just that I go ballistic any time I hear that things are broken when there is no good reason for them to break in the first place. Anytime you got a plastic connection, a vacuum connection, or a wire connection that won’t break loose, don’t force it while it’s cold. Heat it up a little with a heat gun till it just starts to get soft. Don’t heat it to much. You don’t want to melt anything. Just heat it till it begins to soften up, and you’ll be surprised how easily it all comes apart. For bolts or nuts that you can’t break loose, you don’t wanna use a breaker bar on them to try to loosen them. You’re only gonna end up shearing the head off the bolt or strippin the nut. What you wanna do is spray some PB Blaster or penetrating oil on the nut or bolt. Now let it sit for a few minutes. Now put a breaker bar on it, but don’t try to loosen it. What you wanna do is tighten the nut or bolt a bit more till you hear it crack. When you hear the crack it means that the seal is broken. Now you can use a ratchet, wrench, or breaker bar to loosen it. For the plugs in your truck, spray them with some PB Blaster or penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. Now hit them with a heat gun as well. When the plugs are fairly hot remove them normally. Before installin the new plugs put some anti seize compound on the threads. As a matter of fact you should be usin anti seize compound on the threads of any threaded part (or parts) before puttin them back together.

No need for an apology bro. Its all good, you are just one passionate dude. I know it sounds funny but I truly do enjoy seeing how things work so this may be a long cumbersome project but I get a new tool (which is never a bad thing) and I understand it a whole lot better now. The fact that they made a plug in two separate pieces seems to be the big culprit and then poorly designed spark plug wells.

I get what youre saying about the heating stuff and I would have done that but I have had a large number of techs (all the local Ford Techs) and even my auto instructors tell me that this particular model and issue will need to be room temp cold. Otherwise I would have done it that way too. Oh well we live and we learn. Have a good day bro Ive gotta get back under the hood. New tool is in.

ther is good info with pictures here.

http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

may have to use a flex extension on the socket.

I usually use a two 3 inch extensions on the rear plug (passenger side). Put the socket with one extension int he hole first then add the second. Unscrew the plug and pull the extensions up, disconnect the top extension from the bottom and the remove the lower extension and socket.

Thanks for the info. The extension setup he used is exactly what I used. I have already removed/broken all 8 plugs so this will be most helpful on the installation. Thanks again.

You are aware that there are several plug manufacturers makin one piece plugs right? Out of all of them I like MotorCraft. No fouling or misfires. Stay away from Champion and Brisk. Open the link below.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SP507-Spark-Plug-Pack/dp/accessories/B00130FRSQ

Okay So heres the update.....I finished the spark plug job and after a long time researching the right tools for the DIYer and even for a shop I found that the best tool for the price was the Lisle Ford Broken Spark Plug Remover LIS 65600 (Alt 303-1203 303-1398)made by Lisle and then I concurrently purchased a Calvan Ford Spark Plug Broken Porcelain Remover CAL39200 (Alt 303-1398). The tools in the parentheses are the Ford part numbers and the plug remover kit (without the porcelain extractor)was $677. I got both of the above tools from www.denlorstools.com. I paid $124.00 for both and that was using 2nd day shipping to boot. Tools worked great. If you get this tool make sure to do exactly as it suggests and use some grease on the top of the thread starter head and to coat the thread cutter threads with the antiseize. If you dont your cutting threads will be dulled after about 4 plugs. The grease on the top keeps fragments from getting down into the cylinder and the cutting threads are still like new. To do all 4 plugs took only about 25 minutes. Truck runs great and I have a new tool. Thanks again for everyones help

i'm glad it worked out with out having to pull heads.
i didn't want to scare you when i posted the becarful thing, but i've seen some jobs go real bad replacing these plugs.
now that you've got the tools you might be able to recoup some of thier cost helping others with broken plugs.

I was definitely concerned about it. I didnt want to have to start a new project but hey I am not interested in a $4500 bill from Ford. Ill go old school and do it myself. I ended up duct taping a piece of tubing to the end of my shop vac in the off chance that some of the porcelain made its way into the cylinder. It was harry for a while because part of the extractor pushes the porcelain down far enough to allow the threads to bite so the concern was about if there was a piece broken that I couldnt see. I was lucky and I saved some cash. I think I may also try to come up with a shopvac hose end and submit it to Lisle :)

Thanks again for your help

Glad it all worked out and that we were able to help. I'm commenting on something below.

it suggests and use some grease on the top of the thread starter head and to coat the thread cutter threads with the antiseize

This is wrong advice and I don't agree with it. Use cutting oil instead. The grade that a plumber would use when cutting thread with an electric die machine.

I was assuming most wouldnt have cutting oil around but what you say makes sense. Would it be bad if the cutting oil got into the cylinder or would that be a nonissue?

No problem if cutting oil gets in the cylinders, it's just gonna burn off once you start drivin.