07 Camery LE 3.5L just replaced battery, car still wont start without a boost. cranked it pulled battery terminal car kept running. could the alternator be bad or what else would keep battery from charging or what would not let it start without boost?

Troy,

I know it's a new battery (or atleast new to the car) but you should have it checked to be sure it is good and is the right group size for your car. Also check your connections to see if they are clean and tight. If all is good there you may have wiring issues to the starter or a bad starter.

Autozone will perform a free Starting/Charging system test. Post the results back here. We'll be glad to help.

Troy,

Your statement is below.

cranked it pulled battery terminal car kept running.

The above was a bad move buddy. This is not the 50's or 60's or 70's were it was safe to do that. Don't do it again on any car that has an ECM (aka computer) or that is older than 1982. Reason being is that pullin a battery cable (positive or negative) is a great way to cause a voltage spike that could damage (or wipe out) the ECM. The problem you are describing is ONE failed diode inside the pack (all it takes is one) of the alternator. Doesn't matter that you just replaced the battery. Not a battey problem.

Here’s a simple alternator (voltage) test you can do yourself with a voltmeter. Auto Zone also does alternator tests for free. Make sure all the lights and accessories in your car are turned off. Have a helper start the car and rev the engine to 2500 rpm. Set the voltmeter to the DC scale (scale setting must be higher than 12 volts) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Red lead of the voltmeter on the positive terminal, and the black lead on the negative terminal. With the engine at a fast idle, the voltage on the meter should read around 14 volts (13.5 to 14.4). If not, and all the voltage and ground connections (especially grounds) in both the starting and charging systems are on tight and free of all dirt, rust, and corrosion, the alternator must be replaced.

check the ground and positive cable from the battery to where they connect on theother ends. check for burned ends or bad connections.

How's it goin troy?

Troy,

If you check the alternator and it checks out ok. check for a parasitic drain. You can do so with this link (courtesy of Big Block):

http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

If you go to check the cables there are things to check for outside of those that can be seen by the naked eye. A voltage drop test would be a good idea. It should be performed with a DVOM but if you don't have one handy you can use an old shade tree trick. It isn't nearly as accurate but might get you what you need. The test will seem strange cause you will in some instances be checking - with -and + with + but trust me.

#1 Ground your test light where the negative cable from the battery grounds to the engine. Probe the negative (YES NEGATIVE) post of the battery and have a partner try and start the car. If the test light lights up you know you have a bad connection or ground cable. If not go to step 2.

#2 Attach a test light to a good ground and check to see that you are getting power from the battery to the starter solenoid (large wire from the battery). It should have power even with the key off. If no power you have a bad cable or connection from the battery. If there is power with the key off go to step 3.

#3 Take a test light and attach it to battery + (YES BATTERY + AT THE BATTERY NOT -). If your test light isn't long enough you can use a jumper wire at the battery but make sure you have a good connection. At the starter solenoid probe the large power wire from the battery and have a partner try and start the car. If the test light lights up when you try and start it you know you have a bad cable or connection from the battery to the starter. If it doesn't light up go to step 4.

#4 Again with the test light connected to battery + probe the other large post on the solenoid. Have a partner try and start the car and see if it lights up. If it does you know you have a bad solenoid.

Let us know what you find.

Troy,

In addition to what's already been posted, your car has a power outlet and cigarette lighter. Furthermore it's possible for both to a switched 12 volts, a constant 12 volts, or any combination of both. Check the lighter and power outlet for coins that could have fallen into either or both. Coins (inside either or both) could cause shorts, voltage spikes, (and or) electrical drains. If the lighter or outlet are a constant 12 volts don't leave anything plugged into either over night (like a cell phone) to charge. Only charge a cell phone while the car is moving at a speed of 40 mph or more. Also make sure no courtesty lights (inside the car) are staying on overnight or anytime the ignition is off. Check the glove box light, trunk light, hood light, and brake lights, as well to be sure they are all off.

Troy,

Thanks for your last posting (the one above). It raises some new questions. Problem is those questions can't be answered untill you start answering the many questions that are still unanswered. Without those answeres this is just gonna keep snowballing into a bigger problem (or mess). We've made suggestions and given you things to try, but you haven't posted any results. Look man we gotta ask questions and you gotta answer them. You're our hands and eyes here. Remember guy we don't have your Camry in front of us.

Thanks Big Block 409 for your help. Fortunately I found the culpret.It was the brake switch. Changed it out, car is starting with no problem and it shifts out of with no issues.

Troy,

Good deal. Interesting solution.

Let us know if you have any other problems.

Glad you figured it out and happy to be of assistance. Glad you listened to me and checked the brake lights :-).

Now if I could only get my girlfriend to listen to me!!!!

Good job Troy.