2001 300m chrysler. When I start my car it is not turning over right away. The engine itself backfires (not out the exhaust).There is a plug on top of the engine that pops out. Also, from time to time when I come to a stop the car shuts off

Sammie,

People use different words to describe a problem.
When I use the term "turning over" I mean that the engine cranking or spinning (not necessarily starting) when I turn the key.

You said "it is not turning over right away".
Do you mean it doesn't crank (spin) immediately when you turn the key or do you mean it cranks (spins) but does not start immediately?

I assume, since you mention it backfires and pops a "plug" off that it is spinning (turning over or cranking) as soon as you turn the key but not immediately starting. I would like you to verify that.

Do you know what the "plug" might be? It sounds like you are saying that it backfires through the intake and maybe blowing a vacuum line off. Can you tell us the location of the "plug" and what it looks like or attaches to?

How long have you owned the vehicle?
Did this problem just start?
Has there been any work done recently (if so what)?
If there was work done did this problem occur before or only after the work?
Outside of the stalling problem how does it run?
Does it have plenty of power?
Does it idle smooth most of the time?
Is the engine light on?
If it is did you have the computer checked for codes?
If you have checked the codes what are they (if any)?

Your answers to the above questions can be very important. If you would, please take the time to answer each one of them. Please post back here with more info. We''l be glad to help.

sorry, you are right it does crank but does not start immediately, it is the intake and I believe it is the vacuum line. I have had the car for 6 years, this problem has been happening for two months now. besides the stalling when you come to a stop it runs descent. No not plenty of power, it idles smooth I just had the timing belt and engine gaskets replaced. Yes the engine light is on, a mechanic mentioned something about a camshaft or crankshaft sensor. I am just tired of pouring money into this car. but is all I have. Thanks for taking the time.

Sammie,

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

You said you just had the timing belt replaced. Did the timing belt fail or did you do it for the sake of manintenance? Was this problem there before? A backfire and/or poor power can be caused by the timing belt.

You said the mechanic mentioned the crank sensor. This is a common problem. Most parts stores will check your codes for free. You might want to take it to someone and have them check the codes. Don't buy anything just based on the codes but post the codes back here.

I replaced it has never has been done and the mechanic said i should do it, he said the gaskets also needed replacement, but I still have the problem above. I remember now he mentioned the camshaft sensor could this be right? Oh, he also said the radiator and I changed that too. I will go to the autopart and get the code checked.

Sammie,

You said "but I still have the problem above". To me it sounds like the backfiring problem occured before the timing belt and gasket replacement. Is this correct? Did the lack of power show up before or after the timing belt replacement? Did the mechanic mention whether or not the timing belt was missing teeth or if it had jumped time? Also, what gaskets were replaced?

The problem was happening before the timing and gasket replacement. In fact when he changed the gasket, he said it would not backfire anymore. The lack of power showed up before the timing belt replacement. Yes it was missing teeth, the engine gaskets were replaced.

Sammie,

Thought that is what your response would be. You're not gonna want to here this but this is an "interference engine" meaning that timing belt failure can cause engine damage. In an interference engine the valves can contact the pistons during timing belt failure. This can bend valves and can cause piston damage (and other things). Please don't flip out just yet. I know that you're tired of pouring money into this but nothing I have mentioned has been confirmed. I recommend that you have a compression test performed. Also, it's my opinion that no self respecting mechanic would replace a timing belt (that has jumped time or is missing teeth) without checking the engine operation and compression. You may have some sort of recourse if you find that there is engine damage. If the mechanic failed to look for engine damage in a known "interference engine", he/she could be held responsible by a judge (although it might not come to that). Have the compression checked. If it fails the test give the original mechanic one more chance to redeem himself/herself. Anyone can make a mistake and I'd like to think that most will own up to it. Also, tomorrow there might be more techs here that would like to respond. You might want to consider their advise. Jerryh20, ASE master, Big Block, Mws919, and Bfree and many others know their stuff.
Don't just take my word for it. Let us know what you find and what happens.

Just read your last post again. You said...

"The problem was happening before the timing and gasket replacement. In fact when he changed the gasket, he said it would not backfire anymore. The lack of power showed up before the timing belt replacement. Yes it was missing teeth, the engine gaskets were replaced.

Like I said give him a chance to redeem himself but if he doesn't it's my opinion that in a court of law (should it come to that) you have got him by the B@l$$.

Sammmie,

There is a plug on top of the engine that pops out.

You made the above statement. Make a you tube video of the plug that is popping out then post the link the link for the video so we can watch it.

Is what you're calling a plug actually the PCV valve?

Regardless of what it is, does this plug pop out only when you try to start the car, or are there other times when it pops out. If other times tell us when?

You said the check engine light was on. It's on because the PCM is storing at least one error code. The code has to be read to determine what the error is. There code be more than one err code. Auto Zone reads error codes for free. Have a scan done at Auto Zone, and post any codes so we can see them.

Hi Big Block,

It only pops out when I start the car, I will be going today to check out the codes and will post it.

Drivability,

I don't think I will be taking my car back to this mechanic. He specifically told me do not put anymore money into this car, just by a new one. Not sure why though. I told him its easier said than done

Drivability,

Im scared to take it back, he was charging me 1000 to change the radiator. His name should be 6 and better. Because his visits are no less than $600

if the cam and crank are not out of sync, sounds like a bent valve, if they are out, recheck belt timming marks.

OK I just came back from Advanced auto and the signal is P0340, I got the Haynes repair manual, and it says the code means "no cam signal at PCM", "No fuel sync"

belive it or not that code could mean crank sensor also.
to test the sensors you'll need a scope to watch the square waves from each sensor.
unplug the sensor and try to start it, it should have a long crank time, but start sooner or later, that's because it normaly uses the cam sensor to start, but if not seen it will go to the crank sensor and pick up number one cylinder and fire the firing order from there. let us know if it's starts with it disconnected.

Hi Big Block, It only pops out when I start the car.

Sammie,

Your statement appears above. With all due respect, and in the interest of trying to help you and finally resolve this problem, WTF IS POPPING????

We're tryin to help you man, but nothing is adding up here. We're just gettin deeper and deeper into the relm of insanity that is "MAKING NO SENSE" !!!!!

Still waitin for you to post the you tube video of plug, thing, valve or whatever it is that is popping here?????

Can't even believe I'm even askin such a thing here in the first place?????

Things, valves, plugs, do not go "POP" when any vehicle is started!!!!!

For the setting of PO340, (WHICH IS HIGHLY COMMON FOR YOUR PARTICULER VEHICLE) replace the cam and crank sensor and post the results.

Sammie,

I agree that your problem could be the crank or cam sensor and I can see why you would not want to take it back to him. As stated above check the sensors and replace them as needed.

Again, you said your mechanic told you that his repair would fix the problem. It didn't. You said he told you not to put anymore money into this car but he gladly took yours. You said he charged $1000 dollars to replace your radiator. Thats great as long as he used a radiator made out of pure gold.

I think you should check/replace the sensors. If the problem goes away leave it at that. If not then perform a vacuum test, double check the cam timing and check compression.

If it is proven that his work is shoddy you should hold him accountable.

Sammie,

Your statement appears below.

OK I just came back from Advanced auto and the signal is P0340,

One more time. On your particular car, with the particular engine that is installed in it, the setting of PO340 (8 times out of 10) means that both the cam and crank sensors must be replaced. 8 times out of 10 means that the circuit, wiring and connectors (for both sensors) have to be checked first. If all those check out, replace both the cam and crank sensors. The links below will help. You can do this yourself. You don’t have to pay a mechanic.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802d6896

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802d66de

Im gonna go ahead a replace the the cam and crank sensor and keep ya'll posted, Thanks!

Thank you Sammie. We hope that fixes it. Good luck.

Sammie,

Your statement is below.

Im gonna go ahead a replace the the cam and crank sensor and keep ya'll posted, Thanks!

Good. Glad to hear it. Happy to see some progress is being made here. Still waitin for the video (or a complete) description of what is poppin every time you start the car?

LOL sorry is the air-intake plug that pops out

Sorry it is the idle air control valve

Big Block! Don't do it! :)

you may want to check the compression on that engine as well (to ease any concerns about bent valves from the old timing belt missing a few teeth).

LMAO Im sorry, yes I am a girl! and I really do thank you guys for your help, and patience!!

Sammie,

Sorry. No I wasn't telling you not to replace the sensors. I thought Big Block might have a particular response to something that was said and was just joking with him. Male or female nobody was born with the knowledge of how to work on a car. If you think the average guy knows more about a car than you, you would laugh at some of the stories we have. Good luck. Let us know.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Thanks!

Sammie,

LOL sorry is the air-intake plug that pops out

Male, female, or half of both :-), it doesn't matter. Take a look at your above statement. It shouldn't start with (LOL). Like I said, valves, plugs, (nothing) is supposed to go pop or pop out of it's holder when a car is started. There's nothing funny about this. If this is true (and not your idea) of a joke, then you have a real intake vacuum problem that you gotta resolve first.

Really I was not taking it as a joke, I was laughing at myself because I felt really dumb. I changed the Cam shaft sensor and problem solved. Thank you all for your help.

Sammie

Sammie,

Great job. If your "mechanic" (more like parts changer) finds out about this he is gonna feel like the dumb one. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out.

Thanks You greatly for your help, it really made things easier with everyones advice from this site. It was actually easier to do than what I thought.

The check engine light is off now.

Sweet! If you end up talking to 6 again don't bother sharing that you had any help. LOL. You can tell your friends about this site though:)

Oh my gosh! I have already started with you guys and the repair manual I will be O.K. I do have one new question. Any idea what a loud thumping coming from under the car, drivers side,could be? it happens when I make a left turn.

Sammie,

There are an number of things it could be (tires, brakes, steering, axles, etc.) . Tell us more about it.
Low speeds?
High speeds?
All speeds?
Only under acceleration?
Only when braking?
Only when coasting?
Only over bumps?
All the dang time?
You said thumping. Not a popping noise?
Does it only happen once per turn or is it a rapid noise?
You can do it on this post if you'd like but it might be good to make a new one. Start it differently so everyone can see it is a different problem.

First chance you get answer drivability's questions. Also take a look at the exhaust hangers. If one is has failed you could have an exhaust system part movin and bangin around on the floorboard.

Big Block,

What do you think? New posting or stick with this one? I think a new one would be better for her and future readers with similar problems.

Good point "drive". New would be better. :-)

Got it! posted a new post

Good girl Sammie. :-)

there's a torsional are that runs from the front sub frame to the steering knuckel, it's hard to diag., but we replace them all the time.
it's not the lower control are but the link in front of it.
some times can be diag. by hitting the brakes on and off at slow speeds"parking lot speeds".
if you hear it knocking/clunking when hitting the brakes, it's more than likelt the problem.

did you say that the check engine light is on?
if so have it scanned at autozone (for free) and post the codes here.