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i have a 1985 f 150 with a 4.9 liter engine i have changed the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder. also flywheel, pressure plate throughout barring and pilot barring. have bled the system clutch does shift at the beginning then gets stuck in gear after a few minutes and won't shif out of gear.i looked online and it says to torque at 35 pounds on pressure plate. well bolts snaped. looked in chilton's manual and it says 15 to 20 pounds. but i didn't find this out untill i replaced transmission. i know the bolts are more than 20 pounds torque. what i need to know is if this is the reason the transmission won't shift? and gets stuck in gear after a few minutes. have also tried adjusting free play in clutch pedal but makes no difference. any help appreciated thanks paul

did you say, you replaced the

Submitted by mws919 on Thu, 12/22/2011 - 12:52.

did you say, you replaced the transmission?
just what was the problem in the frist place?
have you checked the petal bracket for wear?
how are you bleeding it?

Paul, I'm sorry to hear that

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Thu, 12/22/2011 - 14:46.

Paul,

I'm sorry to hear that you wasted so much time and money by throwing parts at your problem. We are here to help you, and want you to stop wasting time and money by haphazardly throwing parts at the problem.

First thing you gotta do is post (in detail the exact) transmission problem you are having in the first place?

The next thing you gotta do is post your level of skill with transmission problems and rebuilds?

Finally you gotta post your reasoning (in detail) for replacing all the parts you did?

Let us know if you have difficulty (or understanding) the word "Reasoning"?

Don't be embarrassed or ashamed. That is why we are here in the first place, to help people like you.

i replaced the clutch,

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Thu, 12/22/2011 - 19:37.

i replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throughout barring six months ago because the clutch had gone. never had a problem with the original clutch as far as shifting never got stuck in gear. so i changed the parts i just mentioned but never cut the flywheel so i ended up with a vibration letting out the clutch. and the truck started to have a problem getting stuck in gear. so i changed the master and slave cylinder figuring this would help with my problem. well i tried bleeding the system like a brake system with an assistant but no difference. so i took out the master, slave cylinder and line in one piece and made sure no air was in system bled again and installed. still no difference so now i buy a new clutch kit and flywheel seeing the old flywheel is warped. and not wanting to take a chance that i might have a problem with the clutch that i just took out i replaced it. now all i could find on the pressure plate bolts torque was 10 pounds 1st 20 pounds for the second setting and then 35 pounds for the final setting. well i tried this and the bolts started to snap. so i replaced bolts and ended up torquing to around 30 foot pounds. i put the trans back in and i'm back to where i started getting stuck in gear after driveing for a few minutes. have to actually shut off truck to get out of gear. sometimes no problem shifting but sometimes won't shift at all. i do have a granney gear transmission either a t18 or t19 i think it's a t18 because i don't have pto on both sides only on right side. now i have owned this truck for 9 years it did have a problem going into 3rd and 4th gear verry seldom but most of the time it was fine. i don't know how to rebuild it but seeing the problem started when i changed the clutch i figured it was a clutch problem. just need to know if the torque on the flywheel being to much would affect how the clutch works. like i said before i have even tried adjusting the clutch pedal freeplay. but nothing makes a difference. i have done clutches before but never a liquid one. also changed the pilot barring. transmission never makes any noise in gear or out. only when it seems the clutch is not working to go into gear like trying to shift with out using the clutch to go into gear

Paul, Thanks for your

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 05:32.

Paul,

Thanks for your detailed last posting. I wish everyone lookin for help here went to such great detail. They would get their vehicles fixed alot easier and faster. A post such as yours, makes our job (the posting of accurate repair information) a hell of alot easier. As for your problem, and based on your last post, your problem is crying and screaming out "Incompatibility". In other words any and ALL the parts you replaced, Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, etc, are not matched. They may be the right parts to change when doing a clutch job, but they are Incompatible". Here's a couple of helpful links. The folks at both links are very knowledgeable and always willing to help out. Don't hesitate to call them with any questions you may have.

BTW: Torque the bolts to 27 :-).

http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/clutch-discs-pressure-plates--flywheels/

http://www.phoenixfriction.com/c-318-clutch-products_ford.aspx?gclid=CJSV_eiSmK0CFacQNAodFzmrmQ

Paul, I had a 1986 Escort

Submitted by Old Pete on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 08:01.

Paul, I had a 1986 Escort that I had to put clutch into and the job turned out to be a disaster. I ended up having to do the whole job all over again because I used aftermarket parts. The problem is I didn't find out the mistake I made, of using after market parts until after I bought the parts and did the job. At the time I knew a mechanic that worked at a Ford dealership, and he’s the one who told me the importance using OEM parts for any repair that has to be done on any Ford vehicle. IF you did in fact use aftermarket clutch and transmission parts that could very well be the reason you are having problems now. Also here’s few links that I hope will help you.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004bce9

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004bc88

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004bcf0

the system has to be gravity

Submitted by mws919 on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 10:08.

the system has to be gravity bled"no pumpping the patel", try to bleed it that way.
run about a qt. thru it, and make sure there's no air comming out.

well guys thanks for the help

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 11:29.

well guys thanks for the help at least i have a few things to try. like i said this is the first liquid clutch i have done. never had a problem with the older style. and i did install after market parts from autozone. thanks again paul

Paul, Where are you with this

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 15:18.

Paul,

Where are you with this problem?
Any new developments or progress?

You've made it clear that you do have a pedal (clutch) and engagement occurs. Correct me if I'm wrong but it is disengagement that is the problem here correct? Sorry for the confusion, but I've been really busy lately and because it's right before Christmas, I'm not goin back to read all the posts to this point. If the clutch is engaging, and disengagement is the problem here, then I don't see this as being a bleeding problem.

if you shift out of gear at

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Fri, 12/23/2011 - 22:26.

if you shift out of gear at red light then put in gear at green light will sometimes shift in gear but if you hold it in during this amount of time transmission gets stuck in gear. also the more you use the clutch, it seems the more i'm having a problem either coming out of gear or going in gear. seems like clutch pressure not holding. can feel pressure in pedal but clutch grabs near floor. no matter where i adjust pedal freeplay. thought i may have gotten a bad master or slave cylinder. going to try bleeding the system again saturday. really don't want to pull trans again. if that don't work might have to. cannot attach hose to bleader because it's an allen screw. will let you know how i made out sometime saturday thanks paul

Paul, Again thanks for the

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Sat, 12/24/2011 - 02:41.

Paul,

Again thanks for the great details in your postings. Your last post changes things, and has me now thinking that this is a bleeding problem. It sounds like air is trapped in the slave and you need to bleed out the slave to get rid of the air. I would do this the same way you bleed brakes, in other words the two person system. Have someone pump the clutch pedal and then hold the pedal down while you crack the bleeder on the slave. Keep the fluid level full, repeat the process several times, and be sure to close the bleeder all the way before your helper let’s up on clutch pedal.

clutch slave cylinder has

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Sat, 12/24/2011 - 21:09.

clutch slave cylinder has pieces broken off so slave is twisting not staying straight when putting pressure on. also clutch master pushrod bushing worn pretty good. slave and master both made of plastic so going to change to aluminum when i can afford to. thanks to all for your help, have a nice christmas paul

Paul, (You said) clutch slave

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Sun, 12/25/2011 - 08:05.

Paul,

(You said) clutch slave cylinder has pieces broken off so slave is twisting not staying straight when putting pressure on. also clutch master pushrod bushing worn pretty good. slave and master both made of plastic. o

(You said) and i did install after market parts from autozone.

Paul,

Good job buddy. Glad we were able to help get it figured out. Merry Christmas man :-).

Your above statements speak for themselves. Auto Zone parts are shit. You never buy replacement parts for any vehicle from Auto Zone. Auto Zone is all about low price and not quality. They got the lowest prices on parts because their parts are made in China, where there is no quality control.

well guys i replaced the

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 11:02.

well guys i replaced the slave and master cylinder with aluminum instead of plastic. still having the same problem. now the slave directions says you can't bleed from it because it has an allen screw and not to bleed from that screw. so to start off i got the air out of the master by using shoprt strokes. then with the retaining strap in place i filled the slave cylinder. now i attached the slave to the plastic hose making sure no air in system. filled master and disconect slave strap. so slave would extend all the way out. had an assistant hold slave on radiator support and let slave hang to extend hose to see if air was going to come out of system. then started to push on slave rod to expell air from system. this did work seeing air come out of master. did untill no more air then checked master by pushing on rod still no air coming out. then i installed system in truck. still slave won't break retaining strap. now book states adjust from 1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch freeplay on clutch pedal. so i adjust to 1 1/2 inch hardly any pressure in clutch pedal. so kept adjusting till i got to 1/2 inch. well plenty of pressure but strap won't break. but adjusting rod does break. now i'm pretty sure air is out of system but still can't get transmission in gear while running. and didn't want to bleed from allen screw because it would void warrenty. even replaced with a new pilot barring again and a new clutch fork. made sure clutch disk sliped onto transmission spline no problem. and trans went in no problem slid right in. so i feel it's a bleeding problem but can't bleed from slave because i don't want to void warrenty. but i am totalty discusted because of all these new parts and i feel ive done what i'm supposed to and i haven't gotten anywhere. now when you try to get into gear when running you can notice truck moves a hair foward either at 1/2 or 1 1/2 pedal freeplay but won't go into gear. i have checked and double checked and can't see any more air coming out of system. but feel it's either the master or slave still has air but ive done what i should have and still no clutch. don't know what to do next. have even tried emailing the parts store [advance auto parts] to see if they could help with my problem seeing they sold me the parts but they sent me to a site where i have to pay to get an answer. and i feel they should have an answer seeing they sold me the parts. ready to junk the truck seeing i'm not getting anywhere. spent a lot of money with no results. any one have any ideas ? thanks paul

Paul, At this point I gotta

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 13:11.

Paul,

At this point I gotta see the truck myself. That may or may not be possible depending on your location and mine. If I can't get to you, then I'll post the contact information of a master who can fix this problem for you. I'll speak to him first to be sure you get a better than fair price. I know master mechanics all across the United States. Post your city, state, and zip code.

west warwick r.i. 02893 i

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 15:41.

west warwick r.i. 02893 i appreciate any sugestions thanks paul. been looking on the web found that the plate that holds master to firewall will move when you depress the clutch. checked this out and it was moving so put in some self tapping bolts to get rid of play still same problem no clutch but eliminated play.

i bet the fire wall is

Submitted by mws919 on Thu, 01/05/2012 - 19:25.

i bet the fire wall is cracked just about the gas petal, there's a bulletin out on it, but you cann't get the service part any more, i had to make up a support from heavey angle iron, if that's the problem, i can send you the pics of the repair i did, you cann't just weld the crack, it makes it weaker, let me know.

firewall is rotted out above

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 09:15.

firewall is rotted out above clutch master cylinder. maybe 6 inches. looks like the dash has to come out. would appreciate the pictures if you have them thanks paul

Paul, I called a couple of

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 16:50.

Paul,

I called a couple of guy's I know in Rhode Island, but they didn't answer so I left voice messages. Leavin voice messages for these guy's is normal, because (like us some of here) on the forum they are master's. They will get back to me it's just a matter of time. When they do I'll hook you up. Look man I didn't go back to read all your earlier answers, but where are you with the flywheel on the truck? Has it been resurfaced or replaced? I'm thinkin the possibility of one or more "Hot spots" on the wheel?

flywheel is brand new. what

Submitted by fidrat1958 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 18:05.

flywheel is brand new. what i'm going to do next is run 2 pieces of threaded rod one on each side of master from fire wall to the steel brackets of the dash to eliminate any kind of play in fire wall. so i'm going to pull the dash right out to see if i have any other problems. to see if i have to reinforce or weld any other spots

Paul, Still haven't heard

Submitted by Big Block 409 on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 20:44.

Paul,

Still haven't heard from my buddies, but been givin your problem some thought. Hardest part is not havin your truck in front of me. Have you made sure the "Shift Fork" is not bent or worn?

Note: Check the ball on the end of the shifter and make sure it's on the end of the shaft. If won't stay in place cut a 30-06 case to 1" and drill out the base and use it to hold the ball down.

Paul, This is not adding up.

Submitted by Old Pete on Thu, 01/05/2012 - 07:56.

Paul, This is not adding up. What I mean is you stated the slave directions claim that you can't bleed from the slave from the allen screw and you didn't want to remove the screw because you felt it would void the warranty. Well I agree with that but then how are you supposed to bleed the slave? I read and understood your bleeding procedure after installing the aluminum slave but to me it sounds like there is still air in the whole system and the slave as well. You should contact the manufacturer of the slave and have them tell you how to bleed the slave. If not via that allen screw then from where? Are you sure there isn't another screw on the slave for bleeding? Maybe removing the allen screw won’t void the warranty. You should call and speak to the slave manufacturer and ask them all these questions. You should also bleed the master as well and forget about the a gravity bleed method. Bleed both the master and the slave the same way you bleed brakes. I’m talking about the two man principle or using a power bleeder. In my opinion the power bleeder is better because it gets out stubborn well hidden air that’s trapped in the system. Check out this link.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=975,587&action=category

Clearly a (DISENGAGEMENT)

Submitted by ASE MASTER on Thu, 01/05/2012 - 16:35.

Clearly a (DISENGAGEMENT) issue. Throw out bearing may be (NEW) but still could be DEFECTIVE). Begin by (RIDDING) the system of (AIR). Use (BLEEDING) methods (ALREADY) stated. (AGREE) with the (NON) gravity (BLEED) approach. (DISENGAGEMENT) would be (SECONDARY) to an air (SOAKED) system.