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99 Stratus 2.5 V6 won't run. Timing is on the marks. New timing belt, plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, cap, computer, CPS. Compression 180 PSI all 6 cylinders. Coughs & backfires. No power. Is it possible for timing to be 180* off? What am I missing?
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did it run befor work was
did it run befor work was done?
’99 Dodge Stratus, 2.5 V6.
’99 Dodge Stratus, 2.5 V6. About 9 months ago, car quit running. SIL (son-in-law) decided he would fix it. Don’t know what all he did, but he couldn’t get it to run. Instead of bringing it to me (I used to own the car and did all the maintenance on it for 8 years), he took it to his father. FIL (daughter’s father-in-law) replaced the crankshaft position sensor, distributor, rotor, cap, timing belt. Still wouldn’t run. After 8 months, SIL & FIL asked me to try.
Engine would crank but not run. Checked timing marks – with crankshaft timing mark pointed at TDC, 1/3/5 cam timing mark off by 3 teeth BTDC and 2/4/6 cam timing mark off by 2 teeth ATDC. No fire to the plugs. I re-replaced distributor (it was under parts warranty). Still no fire. Replaced computer. Now engine would fire. Checked each plug – all terribly oil/carbon fouled. Replaced all plugs and wires (1/3/5 plug wires were crushed under intake plenum). Compression is 180 PSI each cylinder. I find no vacuum leak. Engine will run (and I use that 3-letter word very loosely), but accelerator pedal does nothing to increase engine speed and engine pops and wheezes constantly. I pulled the fuel line apart where it goes to the injector rack – it is getting fuel (gas will run out of the rack). I even tried starting fluid and propane in the intake but that didn’t make any difference. Engine runs as if distributor was 180 degrees out of time – but crank and both cams point to TDC and rotor points to #1 distributor cap contact.
Is it possible to have the crank & cam timing marks dead-on, but still be out 180 degrees? Any other suggestions? What am I missing?
there is 2 diff. pos. for
there is 2 diff. pos. for tdc. one will be with the piston on exhaust stroke and the other will be with it on the compression stroke. 4 cycle engin. pull the #1 spakr plug and bump the engin over a little at a time with the key until you come to the compression stroke," it will be the stroke with the most air being forced out the plug hole", keep your finger over the plug hole while it's being bumped, this will help you tell witch is the stroke with the most air comming out. once you know the stroke, set the crank to it's mark, it should be close to it any way. now look at where the dist. rotor is pointing, match it to the wire on the dist cap. the wire on the cap is now #1 cyl. start the firing order from there. adjust the wires on cap to the firing order and you should be all set now to put a timming light on it and fine tune. check the emission lable under the hood for any add. info on adjusting timming, ie=pulgging hose/grounding connector for a base time. let us know if you donn't understand this or let us know how you made out. mws919