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I recently replaced my O2 sensor cuz the check engine light was on and the code read O2 sensor. after replacing O2 sensor the check engine light was still on to clear it (so I thought) I unhooked the battery waited and re-hooked it. Bad Idea! Now my power door locks continually lock and unlock while the turn signal lights flash when I first put key in ignition as well as after having started the vehicle and begin driving. How do I reset the keyless alarm. NOTE: I bought the car used and the seller didn't have the keyless alarm Key just a manual key and he advised me not to leave the keys in car or I will lock myself out. Because I don't have the keyless key anyway I would prefer to just disconnect the whole function all together. Can anyone help me here, I can't go any longer driving the vehicle while it does this. Thank you so much

Osohio, Please don't take

Submitted by drivability on Thu, 09/22/2011 - 05:29.

Osohio,

Please don't take offense to what I'm about to say. I'm sure your story is legit and I am in no way trying to be accusational but there are a few problems here:

The first problem is the rate of auto theft in this country. Last I heard about 2-3 per minute.

The second problem is the fact that you had a computer to check the codes but for some reason didn't have that same computer to clear the codes.

The third problem many people might have here is that it appears you posted this at around 2:20 AM EST. I'm sure that this was just a convenient time for you but it does raise a flag.

What it boils down to is anyone with bad intentions and the ability to get a lock cylinder to turn could be posting the question you have. The fact of the matter is I have no concrete reason to believe you're a thief. If you are you should probably reconsider since you are not a very good one but as it stands right now I have no way of proving your story one way or the other.

With that having been said you can go to the dealer with proof of ID and ownership and they can get you a new key fob and program it for you. If you don't have a problem spreading your pesonal info accross the web you can give me the VIN and I can check it against the hot list (with a 72 hour waiting period). After that all we would need is a short video that shows you with the car (with a shot of the VIN), the title and photo ID (all nice and neatly focused). With that I'll be glad to help you with a $60.00 (+ tax and shipping if any) problem. At that point you will have a funtioning key fob in hand.

Most people would not be willing to do what I asked so good luck at the dealer. I hope you understand.
Wish the world was one where I could feel at ease solving your problem without hesitation. Thanks.

Hello Osohio, I must agree

Submitted by Helene Car Lady on Thu, 09/22/2011 - 06:30.

Hello Osohio,

I must agree with drivability. I'm sorry but for legal and security reasons we are not permitted to tell you how to reset or bypass the system. Go to any dealer with the proper proof of owernership and they will resolve the issue for you.

Thank You
Helene

I have to agree with you

Submitted by osohio on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 02:19.

I have to agree with you both. I never even thought about sounding like a car thief when writing that question. A car thief I am not, a CARpenter I am either way thanks for politely bringing it to my attention. For the record I bought it off a subaru mechanic but it has an aftermarket alarm installed and didn't want to mess with it because he "is not an alarm guy". He is the one who cleared the code so we could determine why the check engine light was on. The light came on a week after buying the car so I took it back to him and told him when I had the radio installed the guy at Best Buy checked the code and said it was the knock and o2 sensors. so he cleared them and told me to wait for the light to come back on then we can determine 100% why light was on. When light came back on I took it back to him and he checked it and the 2nd time it was only the o2 sensor. so I replaced it 3 days ago. As for 2am EST its because I am located on the West Coast (san francisco) anyway I never stopped to think what my question sounded like or that it could bring up a red flag. That being said I will go to the dealer and get the problem sorted out, was looking to not pay so much as I am starting to feel like the car might be a money pit and I am so broke I cant even pay attention. Anyway, thanks guys for the replies and I think i can say thanks for all users of the site for your keen sense of what could possibly be a crime. Cheers.

You had us all thinking that

Submitted by ASE MASTER on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 05:57.

You had us all thinking that this was an (OE) alarm. You last answer shows that it an (AFTERMARKET) alarm. Since it's after market (DON'T) go to a dealer. He'll rip you off for sure. Just go to any qualified mechanic or alarm installer for a bypass or reset.

Osohio, Let us know if the

Submitted by drivability on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 07:13.

Osohio,

Let us know if the engine light comes back on. I feel it would be in your own best interest if you would not replace parts based solely on a trouble code description. The trouble code only gives you a baseline for where you are to begin diagnostics. There is a dedicated procedure (flow chart) for each and every trouble code. When people fail to follow the test procedures they often replace the wrong part(s). I hope this does not turn out to be the case but in the event that the light comes back on please feel free to post back here and we can help you get it squared away. You'll find a lot less resistance from us on a question like that. :-)
Thanks.

Also, thanks for understanding our position on your initial posting.

Thank you all for your input

Submitted by osohio on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 09:59.

Thank you all for your input and help with this issue. I think I will do as ASE Master suggested and go to an alarm installer not a dealer and get it bypassed. That is unless it ends up being more pricey which I hope it doesn't. One other thing I wanted to ask, the O2 sensor has been replaced for about a week now. No check engine light yet and I also could tell a bit of a difference in the acceleration. I' try my best to describe what I mean, here goes. When I hit the gas (prior to new sensor)the car felt as if the exhaust was spitting out the muffler not an even smooth flow kinda like va-va- va- varoom rather than vaaaaaaaroom. With the new sensor the spitting has gone some but it still feels like there is a little happening. Much like when something is caught in your throat and you take a deep breath versus a deep breath with no obstruction. If that description made sense any suggestions on what I might do to get the acceleration to be smooth? Again thank so much to you all for your help and input you all have been great and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it. Take care all.

Osohio

Osohio, Knowing now that it

Submitted by drivability on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 10:22.

Osohio,

Knowing now that it is aftermarket I would have to agree. The dealers usually think that they should be the only ones to work on a car almost as if they had a Subaru (for instance) breeding facility that they cloned their techs in. The fact that your alarm wasn't installed by them will might entice them to stick it to you.

As for the shop you take it to you will want to be picky. Car alarm/radio shops often (not always) employ entry level technicians since installing them doesn't require that much experience. If you go to an alarm shop you might want to get a feel for who you are dealing with. Also, you mentioned your acceleration issue. You might want to consider ASEs first recommendation "a qualified mechanic" and ask them to test drive it after they have taken the alarm out. Most would be happy to do so.

You asked what might make the acceleration smooth. That of course can be caused by many problems. We'll be glad to walk you through tests but since you are going to take it to a shop you might want to do what I recommended and after you get the technicians input you can post it back here.

Let us know how you want to handle it. Thanks

Osohio, For the future you

Submitted by ASE MASTER on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 15:40.

Osohio,

For the future you can buy the (EQUSS MODEL 3030) code reader from a (WALMART SUPER STORE) for $30.00. This is just a simple hand held code reader (NOT A QUALITY SACN TOOL), but for your purposes right now it's good enough. It reads error codes, and clears (MIL's) as well once the repair has been correctly done. The day's of clearing codes by removing fuses, relays, or battery cables are gone. On an OBD II vehicle like yours (THE EASIEST) way to clear one or more codes is with a code reader or scan tool.

ASE Master, drivability, and

Submitted by osohio on Fri, 09/23/2011 - 15:41.

ASE Master, drivability, and Helena Car Lady I really can't begin to thank you all enough. Your input and suggestions have set me off in the right direction and even better yet have helped me to get a better understanding of my vehicle problem(s.)You are all super people and I can't see there being a better site online to turn to for people such as myself. In my opinion that is. I feel blessed and a little lucky to have come across this site and to have correspondence with such quality people as yourselves and I do mean that sincerely. Thanks again and I will post again later after I have followed up with all your suggestions and recommendations. Until then thank you and take care. You all are great, it's comforting knowing there are people such as yourselves out there in the world still.

sincerely, Osohio